Until just a few years ago, Mexican-style cheese wasn’t readily available in the United States.

To taste its fresh simplicity, one visited that country. There, in restaurants, mercados, households or from street vendors, one could get crumbly, salty sprinkles of cotija cheese on top of fragrant mashed beans. Or, warm Oaxaca cheese (sometimes called quesillo) melted onto small, just-made corn tortillas.

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